Introduction
This September, I spent a week exploring three iconic Italian cities with my family. Our trip started in Rome, but we barely scratched the surface of this bustling metropolis.
Like so many other great cities, the energy was electric.
Here’s how I filled 48 hours in Rome, and how I survived being unexpectedly separated from my family in a foreign country (uh-oh).
Day 1: From Pittsburgh to Pizza
The trip started with a drowsy drive to the Pittsburgh airport followed by a long night of travel.
Dave and I took a red-eye to London for a brief layover. Somewhere between gate changes, I made the impulsive (and regrettable) decision to fill my liter-sized water bottle, which I then had to chug in front of an impatient security officer.
It was my own personal hell.
Once we landed in Italy, the excitement started. Our taxi driver zoomed us through the streets of Rome like he was Baby Driver. Eventually, we reached our rental, which was a charming apartment overlooking the lively Via Ottaviano near Vatican City.
We dropped our bags, and let our grumbling stomachs guide us to a nearby pizzeria called Bella Napoli. Here we indulged in our first taste of Italy, including the first of many Aperol Spritzes.
We strolled around afterward, savoring the warm evening air and our first glimpse of Italian life. We ended the night with gelato from a pastry shop called Parenti.
Then, finally: Sleep.
Day 2: Vatican Mornings & Colosseum Evenings
St. Peter’s Basilica
The next morning, we woke and went straight to Vatican City. Lucky for us, our apartment in the Prati neighborhood was a 10-minute walk from St. Peter’s Basilica.
Though arrived bright and early, the line for St. Peter’s Basilica was intense. It was a Sunday so the square was full of parishioners, pilgrims, and tourists alike. We were engulfed by a sea of large wooden crosses and selfie sticks.
After a grueling, hour-long wait in direct sunlight, we made it inside.
The church was instantly cooler and quieter, with the kind of sacred stillness that makes you pause and go inward.
The interior of St. Peter's Basilica had me awestruck.
I fell in love with the grand ceilings, the beautiful murals, and Michelangelo’s Pietà. This sculpture captures the moment when Jesus was taken down from the cross and placed in Mary’s lap.
Standing face-to-face with beauty like this was a genuine, pinch-me moment.
Plus, admission was free!
Local Food Options
Afterward, we stopped just outside the Vatican City walls at Trattoria Marcella for a much-needed cappuccino and breakfast sandwich. Espresso foam, cured meat, and sun on shoulders are simple pleasures but, man, they felt truly luxurious.
We took a late morning rest while waiting for the rest of our travel party to arrive. Once my whole family got settled, we had lunch at Giselda. Here, my rudimentary Italian skills impressed the waiter, and he served us some off-menu specials!
The Colosseum
The Colosseum is the largest ancient amphitheater ever built and the largest standing amphitheater in the world.
That afternoon, we ventured across town to the Colosseum, where we spent hours wandering through ancient arches and crumbling corridors.
We paid extra for an audioguide, which really brought the ruins to life.
The Colosseum bookstore was underwhelming, but the surrounding gardens and nearby Roman Forum more than made up for it. We spent the afternoon exploring the sun-drenched maze of columns, learning about the history of the Roman Empire.
The Roman Forum & Palatine Hill
I had a blast exploring Palatine Hill & the Roman Ruins.
The Forum was the heart of ancient Rome. This area hosted everything from political speeches and trials to religious ceremonies and daily commerce.
While exploring the Forum, you can take in the stunning views of Palatine Hill, which was the residential area for Rome’s emperors and elite class.
The grounds for the Forum and Palatine Hill are gorgeous. You will meander through gravel paths shaded by sacred fig trees then come face-to-face with ancient ruins and archaeological excavations.
For about $40 per person, you can book this one ticket for entry and audio guides to all three attractions.
Apertivo & An Affogato Nightcap
We had dinner near the Colosseum at Osteria Maracuja. This small restaurant had crowded tables spilling out onto the lamp-lit street. Immaculate vibes.
We worked off dinner with a long stroll to Roma Termini Station, then took the metro back to our rental.
Before heading in for the night, we stopped at Lemongrass for an affogato. This treat is gelato drowned in espresso. Pure heaven in a cup.
Then it was time to rest up for our seamless travel day to Venice.
Or so I thought…
Day 3: The Great Train Mix-Up
Frecciarossa high-speed trains for the win.
The plan was simple: Take the intercity metro a couple stops to Roma Termini, which is the city’s main train hub and the launching point for Venice-bound travelers.
However, the first metro car to Roma Termini was packed, and I was last to board so there wasn’t any room. No biggie, though, because trains come every 10 minutes or so. Everyone else rode onto Roma Termini and I would be right behind them on the next train.
However…
Just one stop before Roma Termini, the overhead announcement crackled to life in rapid Italian. But I got the gist: Roma Termini was operational but the stop on this particular line was closed due to transportation worker strikes.
My Italian was solid enough to understand that getting off at the stop before Termini was more convenient than getting off at the stop after. We could easily walk the rest of the way.
Once I confirmed my theory with the local sitting next to me, I hopped off to wait for the rest of my family.
What I didn’t realize, and what made the next 45 minutes so chaotic, was that my family hadn’t heard the announcement at all. They had cell service, unlike me, but they did not have enough Italian knowledge to decipher the situation.
So while I was waiting two stops back, they had sailed right past Roma Termini. By the time they realized something was wrong, they’d already gotten off at the next stop after Termini.
Cue a brief but very real episode of “Lost in Translation: Italy Edition.”
At first, I thought they got off at the same stop as me. So I scoured the whole station, below ground and above. Once on street level I shot off rapid-fire texts explaining the situation then went back down to wait for them.
I went back and forth with myself every few minutes, wondering if I should take the train to the stop after Termini or if I should stay put. All the while, I had spotty cell service and no access to public Wi-Fi.
Eventually, by some small cellphone-induced miracle, I was able to call my mom and we found each other. Sweaty, frazzled, and very relieved.
Once reunited, we speed-walked the last ten minutes together to Roma Termini. We were able to laugh about it once we sat down in our seats for the long-haul train to Venice. For almost an hour, though, I was genuinely alone in a foreign country with nothing more than a working knowledge of Italian and a lot of trust that we would all figure it out.
Honestly though?
This was one of those travel moments that perfectly captures the chaos and magic of exploring somewhere new. Sometimes you get lost, but if you keep your wits about you, everything will work out.